CAPE COAST CAPTIVE

Cape Coast Castle was built over 300 years ago by the British, but the fort had also been in the hands of the Swedes, the Danes, and the Dutch.  The fort/castle was used for trading in gold, ivory, and especially slaves.  Ghana, at one time, was known as the Gold Coast and historically dealt with the threat of pirates.

Cape Coast Castle, Cape Coast Ghana

Prepared for attack

Freedom and Justice

The tour of the fort was difficult as we walked the route of the slaves from the auction block, to the hot crowded dungeons where over 1000 men were held at a time in deplorable conditions to the "Door of No Return", the tunnel exit to the ships where conditions for the transatlantic journey were even worse.  It's difficult to comprehend man's inhumanity to man solely for the purpose of economic gain.

The Lutheran Connection, Ghana 2014

Yes, Missy, I was able to make a Lutheran connection even in Ghana.  It's nice to feel at home even across the Atlantic. The pastor of St John's Lutheran Church in Takoradi, Ghana has taken up his position as a third career.  He currently also teaches at a private secondary school in the area.  Pastor Joseph Bart-Plange's wife is the only trained deaconess in Ghana having completed her training at Concordia Seminary (where my step mom worked) in Fort Wayne, Indiana (where I grew up).

Pastor Bart-Plange

St John's Lutheran Church and School

Martin Luther Preschool.

How cool is that!

It's interesting that after our brief visit, my travelling partner said I had a gleam in my eye.  Although our schedule did not allow us to worship at the church, I appreciated the opportunity to introduce my self.  I would have been disappointed to have come this far and missed saying hello to a fellow Lutheran literally down the street.
I think the "gleam" in my eye came from the excitement of the pastor himself. The congregation has about 120 worshippers on Sunday, not bad for a city with churches everywhere:  Catholic, Presbyterian, Anglican, Methodist, Pentecostal, Assembly and Church of God etc.  They use the "red" hymnal--CPH 1941, but the pastor was excited that he also have the new service book.  They have a choir and definitely like to sing.  
There is a definite LCMS missionary presence around Ghana,especially since dome have been forced to flee Nigeria.
The school is typical of most in Ghana in some ways:  the students wear uniforms and have very poor facilities by our (or even most) standards.  The "neighborhood" is typical as well:  back several buildings and rocky paths off the main road in the midst of houses, goats and chickens.  The pastor even raises rabbits to help with expenses. Some noteworthy differences:  this "basic" school only has 120 students and is a private school, receiving no govt funds.  Ghanaians prefer such private basic schools because they offer a better education. 
The Lutheran Church is active in Ghana.  To learn more follow the link below:

www.lcms.org/ghana

http://www.ilc-online.org/members/africa/ghana/


Please pray for the growth of God's church in Takoradi and Pastor Bart-Plange's work as well as for all Lutherans and other Christians in Ghana and all over Africa, especially Nigeria.

Ghanian education re-formed

I'm waiting for a clever title for this blog to hit me on tbe head, so I haven't started to discuss  yesterday's experiences actually teaching the girls of Arcgbishop Porter.  Before I begin, I want Non-western Civ to look closely at the pictures below and see if you recognize anything familiar (The rest of you can simply enjoy).

Archbishop Porter girls enjoy a chance to collaborate on an in-class activity.

Non-Western Civ, did you figure it out so I can continue?

My first lesson with the girls was on World Religions.  Because of the nature of Ghanaian education focusing on preparation for the Form 3 (senior year) examinations required for any further education, much of teaching is lecture and recitation.  Also, large class sizes (up to 60 in a class), and cramped space prohibit much interactive or group learning, but I decided to give it a try.  The card sort activity (familiar to my students) allowed the girls to work in groups and talk together while using deductive learning.  In reality they had learned some of this material earlier. They commented that they would enjoy such opportunities but realize the difficulty in the current system.  After the card sort we discussed and compared each of the five major word religions.  There was a Muslim girl in the class who shared some aspects of Islam, as well.  I had a great opportunity to share a common faith with the girls as part of this activity.  What a difference between Ghanaian and American public schools.
So much more learning can go on with such collaboration.  The teachers recognize this as we discussed limitations and challenges with social studies teachers in a mini workshop. It's not that they don't see the value in or have the desire for taking their students into deeper thinking activities, the structure and nature of the national system do not afford the opportunity.
In further lessons, activities, and interactions with the girls I noticed there are a number of similarities with my American girls:  they like cute boys and want r Facebook or email, certain students want to dominate the conversation, they respond well to authority when treated with respect and now know the meaning of QUIESCITE!!!

Taste and See. .......... The Lord is Good

God is indeed good.  Today I wanted to share a few of the sights and tastes of my day in Takoradi.  Words are not sufficient to describe the food we have the opportunity to eat on a daily basis.  Acouple of tnings of note:  Ghanaians are very gracious people and this includes the portions in their meals.  It seems as if I leave almost half of my portions at every meal.  Also, the food is tastier than I expected.  I'd never tried Ghanaian good but expected a lot of spicy pepper.  While that is available, most of or meals have had chicken, fish or even goat.  Contrary to a previous post, goat can be very tender and tasty when prepsred properly ( although I doubt anyone will get me to ever try thst hot pepper soup :(  ).  What Ido miss, however, are desserts ( even just once in a while) so sweet fried plantains have had to suffice.Since I can't really share the tastes of Ghana, the sights will have to suffice.

Ghana is a country blessed by God in many ways: from the beauty of its people, both in heart and in spirit, to the richness of its resources to thenatural beauty of the rainforest and the sea--God is indeed good.  Much needs to be done to help Ghana grow and develop, but that is a topic for another time.  For now:

TASTE and SEE GHANA 

Mango tree on campus, not ripe for several weeks.

Panorama of Takoradi Harbor, the economic base of much of the area shipping out natural resources including bauxite and cacao.

Takoradi Beach, beautiful Atlantic Ocean, although many Ghanaians don't swim

Many places on Ghana advertize for Christ simply in their names.

I'm actually eating ground nut soup with my fingers at above chop shop.

Ground nut soup has a spicy peanutty broth with goat, tilapia, and fufu--mashed, cooked cassava and plantains.  Despite its appearance it was delicious.

Global issues assignment (others are welcome to participate)

Follow the directions on handout on Thursday, post here and respond thoughtfully to any blog. You will need to search the internet.

1.  Find the latitude and longitude of Accra.
2.  Find the latitude and longitude of Takoradi.
3.  What is the distance east to west at its widest point?
4.  What is the distance north to south at its longest point?
5.  Who is the current president of Ghana?
6.  What is the motto (in English or in Latin) of Archbishop Porter Girls Secondary School in Accra.

WHAT A FRIEND WE HAVE IN JESUS

 Imagine the scene:  1600+ girls assembled in columns at 7:00am in the morning for assembly.  Well, you don't have to imagine, just look below for how every Monday starts at Archbishop Porter.

We were on the veranda with the headmistress looking down.  I kind of felt like the Pope.  Don't worry, even though he speaks Latin, I'm not ready to convert.  The asembly immediately began with prayer and some instructions in English (quite versus quiet) so that they should stand in line quietly and straighten their rows.  Then some character development:  girls of character walk briskly and with  sense of purpose.  The domestic headmistress (Mama Abs) scolded the girls for smuggling corn flakes into the dining hall instead of eating the provided kenkay ( a maize product) or eating in tbe dorms or classrooms  Tbe penalty:  first offense suspension, second offense counseling and expulsion from the dorm.  Surprisingly (or not so surprisingly) not two hours later a girl was called into the headmistress for eating in class.  Sound familiar any of my poor   listeners?

The assembly continuec with 1600 girls singing What a Friend We Have in Jesus. Same words, slightly different but beautiful melody.  Many were amazed I could sing it without a hymnal. How awesome to reiterate through song that the same Jesus is the friend to an about to be grandmother (still waiting), from a small Lutheran high school in Saginaw, Mi and a fifteen year old Ghanaian girl hundreds of miles away from home at a"public" Catholic boarding school in Takoradi, Ghana West Africa.

Girls are girls all over the world.  Hamming it up for the camera in Form 1 mathematics class witb a male teacher who sings little ditties when he calls on his students.

Yes, I really am in Ghana with my Form 3 friends.  Had a chance to interact with this class of girls during a study period preparing for their future as they study for their final examination.

More on interactions with students following tomorrow's actual teaching.

please post comments

Please try posting a comment or two on any blog.  I need to test out the system for student use.  Thank you for all your support and prayers.

Kakum, Here we come!

I did it!!!  I survived the canopy walk in the Kakum National Forest.  There were six or seven different aerial bridges on the long walk "miles" above (ok feet) the rainforest floor.  The view was breathtaking and the walk quite rickety but very safe.  It's a good thing I'm not acrophobic (look it up, it'sGreek).

The  beginning of my journey

A rainforest panaroma

Above the canopy

For me this was the most interesting and challenging trip yet in Ghana.  High above, in the treetops of Kukum, are a series of rope bridges allowing one to traverse the canopy.  A bit disappointing, since the crowds and heat make seeing any animals difficult, majestic nevertheless.  It was hard work climbing it up the slope to the ropes, making the rope bridges themselves the easiest part of the trip. Being one with the trees allowed me to further appreciate the majesty of creation and the bridges the marvels of modern engineering.

Tomorrow off to the classroom.

Walking on Water

We know Jesus did it and Peter, until his faith floundered, and I had to explain to some girls at Archbishop Porter how we can walk on water and go ice fishing (fortunately, I had pictures to prove it).  In Ghana there is a village called Nzuleza (don't ask me go pronounce it) that lives on the water.  Not on an island but on stilts. 

Pictures are allowed on or near the village so I'll describe the adventure for us.  The people , centuries ago followed the snail to its final resting place and settled here.

http://www.greenbugadventures.com/ghana/ghana-travel-directory/nzulezu-stilt-village-ghana

Check the link above for the full story.

Here's a better look with some " borrowed" pictures. Which, of course, I would cite if I weren't doing my blog on my phone.

The roads to the land connection makeveven the worst potholes  in Michigan seem like newly paved roads.  In fact, ourbhost Christian now needs to geet a new miffler.  He reallyntried to avoid the worst but sometimes there was no road left on which to drive.  Theybare "in process" to make a new highwat to the Ivory Coadt, but with an infrastructure like Ghana's(or lack of one) who knows how long it will take.  Drivinh home on tnis "highway" was no picnic.

On to the village.  It took a bus ride through fields, a short walk through a swampnd a 30 minute canoevride over a peaceful lake to reach the village of 450 inhabitants.  Its like stepping back in time except for electricty  and internet.  Few people ever leave the village or they return after secondary school to a life of fishing and tourism.  The children swim like fish and know how to work the tourists.  The village is bigger than first impresdion and we held "counsel" with the assistant chief.  

It's hard to describe, but the people seem content.  I can't imagine visitofs to my home every day who really are there only to gawk.  Of course, I'd never be patient enough for that nor woud Sassy.  By the way, I do miss Sassy, and saw a dog who lookec like her yesterday wandering among the goats.

Now on to the rainforest.

A New Understanding of "Public" Education

Since we've been in Ghana we've had the opportunity to observe a few schools of various types.  There are "basic"  schools PK-9th and these can either be public or private.  Then there are the private and public secondary schools as well--Forms 1-3 (10-12).  Below are some of the schools of today's visit
                      GSTS a public day school.

St Johns Methodist all boys public boarding

Archbishop Porter Girls Secondary 

My school.  An endowed Catholic Mission public School

Liberty American School, Accra.  Private Christian where Dr Brandt's brother works.

In Ghana, most schools were started as Mission schools by Catholics, Methodists, or Presbyterian to teach people to read.  To make a very long story short, these are now govt schools even though may be religious.

There is a national curriculum for all public schools and exit testing at the end of Form 3 (and you think exams are hard).  Scores on these exams determine your college opportunities.  But wait.... there is so much more behind the scenes before you even get to secondary school.  The"basic" schools are not very good in many places because many are rural and teachers are diploma teachers.  Parents will work very hard to send their children to private school to have a better start.  Some of these are even boarding schools for as young as 9.  Watch out MLS! It is interesting that tuition is more expensive k-8 than for secondary school.  No, Dr Brandt I'm not suggesting anything.

Because public secondary schools are competitive and very good, private schools frequently lower tuition yo try to retain students.  Students are placed in secondary schools based in part on a computer lottery system and one might end up 100s of miles from home, hopefully at a boarding school, but that isn't always the case.  You might have to contract out with someone for your 14 year old daughter to stay.  Kind of s scary thought.  The public schools we visited have religious instruction, mealtime prayer and mandatory chapel on Sunday at boarding school.

The schools are big 1700 students or so and class size is between 50-60.  Students stay in the room with the same group of students and the teachers move.  No worry about tar dies, Steve.  Think how much roomier the halls would be and easier access to lockers if they had either.

Worked hard today, need to take a break.  I know the suspense will be killing you, but To Be Continued

Akwaaba, Welcome, Welcome!

Just remember, blogging on my phone is not fun.
Arrived in Takoradi after a very pleasant three and a half hour trip from Accra.  Joe was a wonderful driver as well as tourist guide.  There was so much to see, didnt even have time to read or crochet.  We passed through police checkpoints since we are close to the border, saw the ocean along the way with very poor housing all around.  Gives a new name to beach front property.  We even saw a few Liberian refugee camps from the time of Charles Taylor. (That's another story for another time).
After arriving in town, Christian checked us into Sammar Lodge, a very spacious room, and it was off to school.  It is very important to Ghanaians that we felt welcome and the "akwabaas" were warmly flowing from everyone we met.  The appropriate response is "media base".  Now you know almost as much Fante as I.  We met Mary, the headmistress, Theodora, an assistant headmistress, and "big mama" or "mma abs" the domestic headmistress.  We were immediately warmly embraced literally and figuratively.  It was over 95 degrees and see were on the third floor.
 I don't have time or space to mention everyone, I just hope I can remember even dome.  We were served delicious stew by the delightful girls below.

After lunch we had a great opportunity to interact.  I was explaining US geography and drew a very accurate detailed map, OK maybe I didn't.  They laughed and said their teacher would give me a very bad grade.

The girls were cute when they couldn't agree on which part of Ghana was the best because they come from different ones among Ghana's ten regions.  Can't wait for more such interaction.

Christian took us shopping for necessities such as bottled water and snacks, dinner then home to unpack and relax.  He kept reiterating how excited he is for us to be here and wants everything to be perfect and it is.  Well, except for my computer.....

Mema Wo Adwe (good night) until tomorrow.

To Market, To Market to Buy a...

What comes to mind when you think of going to market?  Well, I know we don't even really go to market, but in Ghana so many images come to mind.  There  is the woman outside the hotel with her little souvenir shop (probably with many items made in China), or Ophelia's friend who brought her "market" to the hotel for the women to order clothing and peruse her jewelry.  Or, think how convenient it would be for you to have the market come to you when you are driving down the highway or stuck in a traffic jam.  The walking street vendors are all over selling such things as water bags, plantain chips, towels, mini blankets (in 90 degree heat) and even spray starch, all from little baskets on top of their heads.  I can't even begin to imagine how little these (mostly women) people make for such hard, back breaking work.

 

Then there are those who sell in their "shops" along the street, some of which also serve as their homes.  But we also saw a very modern mall.  (Unfortunately, technology has been somewhat of a challenge so I have had to use three different cameras, and I don't have the mall picture to share).

The most interesting market experience, bar none, was the trip to the Accra Arts Center.  Any one you who’ve ever been to Nassau in the Bahamas have seen a similar market.  However, I don’t remember the people being nearly as aggressive in their selling techniques.  An area of a few city blocks was filled with booths under cover.  Each booth was no more than 6x8 and packed densely together.  Anything you wanted (or didn’t want) that represented Ghana was there a hundred times over.  Of course, each item was hand made by the owner of the booth and some even gave all their profits to help the street children. While this may be true for a very few, I don’t see how each booth owner would have time to make the items he/she created or how they could make them so similar to items in other booths.  It was an experience not to be missed.  I’m looking forward to a similar market in Takoradi since I haven’t found everything I “needed” to buy yet.  I’m glad the bus driver went with me to help me find the booths I was looking for.  Fortunately, everyone understands English and “No” isn’t that hard for me to say.  (I know you are all laughing now J).  Some of our group were pushed and almost dragged into the “booths” but we all felt safe and got some good bargains.  I “mastered” my bargaining skills, bartering from 450 cedi to 250 for one particular item.  It also helps to walk away.  One man followed me all the way out of the market area when I refused to pay more than 10 cedis for a gift for the baby (I know it’s not here yet).  Of course, I then got it for 10.  Again, it amazes me how hard these people have to work to make a living and I almost feel bad trying to barter with them when it means so little in American dollars.  $1.00 = 2.5 cedis, so my 10 cedi gift for the baby was about $4.00.  (Sorry, Josh and Tiff, I’m on a tight budget J ).  Some are now shopping at the “mall”, I can do that at home.  Of course, I never do, but I could……

Tomorrow on to Takoradi and our school placement, about a 3 or 4 hour drive “depending on traffic and potholes”.

Food Ghanaian Style

No red velvet or even chocolate yet in a country where cocao is king.  I've been disappointed with the food so far:  the hotel hasn't served local fare but seems to cater to a generally boring theme.  However, yesterday's lunch at Buka was all Ghanaian and more.  Pictured below are various menu items enjoyed (or not) by various members of our group.  All spoke highly of their food except the goat meat soup.  I can't say as I blame her.  It looked nasty and was really goat parts in a very peppery broth--that's it.  I had a traditional bean/beef stew with fried plantains which I enjoyed.  Fish, heads and all, seemed a very popular dish and everything came with some kind of startch--plantains or cassava which actually tasted much like French fries.  We eat often, lacking much fresh fruit and veggies and especially dessert.  Ordered a milk shake at the hotel the first night and it was basically chocolate milk on ice.  Well, that at least, will be good for my diet.

My lunch yesterday

Fish, chicken and rice.

Food at the hotel is cosmopolitan, trying to reach a variety of cultures.  For example we we offered spaghetti for breakfast.  

Before I forget-this is for students only.  I saw Red Velvet Cupcakes yesterday at a "french cafe".

dreaded hot pepper goat soup

my bean beef stew with fried plantains

fish head soup

  grilled tilapia (yes, the whole fish)

Time to run.  Wanted to get this posted.  Enjoy your boring lunch at home.  (Please pray for those three in our group who are sick.)

Tonight I am meeting Dr. Brandt's brother in Ghana for supper!!!!.  Stay tuned for more information.

Activity in Accra

It"s been such a busy day, I don't know where to begin.  However, I had to include this picture, taken around the corner from our hotel today, because it is just the picture I have been looking for since reading Kwei Quartey's detective novels set in Ghana.  One of the things he mentioned is the Christian influence seen in so many places and using the name of God or Jesus in simple businesses.  We passed a "God is Love Bakery" truck and saw a "Jesus Saves nail salon", so I thought this picture very appropriate.
Our day began with an informational lecture on the history of Ghana but information was also shared on many social and cultural customs.  Sorry, Sarah, Carole, Josh, and Dad but it is considered almost evil to be left-handed in Ghana.  Don't worry, I wasn't left out of the discussion either because twins are so rare they are frequently abandoned at birth (or were at least historically) and even surrounded by ground maize to encourage wild animals to approach.
We traveled to the US Embassy where we were strictly forbidden from taking any pictures (but that was OK because there weren't any exciting sites).  The best part was getting to meet Ghanaian teachers and learn that they have many of the same concerns as US teachers:  how to deal with parents, get students to work to their potential, and deal with much more technological frustrations than we can ever imagine.  When asked why they continue to teach, one teacher responded, :"My reward is in heaven."  I told her I wholeheartedly agreed, but I have so many rewards each and every day when I walk into my classroom.  I miss you all.  BEHAVE!!! for Miss Engelhard.
We also got to meet our host teacher.  Christian is sooo excited that we are coming and so are the girls and everyone at his school.  That will be in only a few short days.
Tonight was a cultural experience as a traditional dance troupe performed for us.  They have traveled the world including Concordia University.  (Missy, it's that small Lutheran world at it again).  I tried to upload some video but had connection issues.  Will try on another post.  Fortunately, I have no video of my dancing with the troupe (which I did since we had no option.  It wasn't a pretty sight). 
It's been such a great experience and it's only just begun.  I hope you stayed tuned for so much more.  God has certainly blessed me with the wonderful opportunity.

we're here!

After leaving home more than 24 hours before arrival, I'm finally here.  It looks like it might rain (how unusual for a rainforest).  Reflections to date:  amazed that the plane was completely full and relatively quiet for 10+ hours.  Ghanaians have a different concept of personal space and like to push.  Customs was relatively quick but now my fingerprints and mug shot are on file in Ghana.  The mall where we stopped for phones etc would be right at home in any American city.  Above is a picture of one of many street hawkers on the journey to the hotel.  One so much wants to help but we have been warned not to buy/ eat anything "fresh".  Our hotel Paloma is comfortable enough and even has air conditioning.  I know you have all been worried for my comfort.  I'm sitting at an outside cafe and yes, I have used my bug spray.  You can certainly see examples of globalization here in the diet coke I had for supper and Puma at the mall.  Can't wait to indulge in the real Ghanaian experience beginning tomorrow.

I'm leaving on a jet plane

Well, actually three planes.

7:00 am EDT until 10:55 am GMT the next day.  Here's my first"selfie". (Thanks, Missy).  Note my new "do" for the heat and humidity of Ghana.  God has already worked so many amazing things as part of this trip, I can't even imagine what He has in store next.  My devotions this morning promise that I have been equipped by God for this task (2 Timothy 3:16-17) and have been chosen to bear fruit (John 15:16).  Wonder what fruit, literally and figuratively, I'll enjoy in Ghana.  I need not be anxious because God is in my midst.  Zephaniah 3:17.  Let the adventure begin!!

The Odyssey is about to Begin

In less than 48 hours I will begin my 24 hour journey to Ghana.  Today was special at school as I was sent off with prayer and blessings (from Philippians) during Chapel.  I am so excited to be taking Valley with me in so many ways.  Check out the attached video to see my kids sharing the school Fight Song with the girls at Archbishop Porter.  My bags are packed (well, almost) and I'm ready to go.  It is only with the slightest hesitation as I can't really envision leaving my "kids" for two weeks, however capable the substitute is.  I've been interviewed for the paper (Saginaw News) and was asked what I am looking forward to the most.  It was, interestingly, the same question Dr. Meyers asked me in chapel today.  I could easily say what I wasn't looking forward to--you all know by now-- THE HEAT.  However, I think there is so much to anticipate:  An entirely different culture, other teachers who care about their students and have a passion for education, the interesting food, mosquito nets, and the Canopy walk in Kakum National Park.  What I am most looking forward to experiencing and bringing back to my kids and my school is the understanding that, although Ghana is a developing country and quite different from the US in many ways, we are more similar than we are different.  I hope to be able to debunk certain stereotypes I and others may hold about African people, and to bring back more of the story.  I really want to fight the "Danger of a Single Story" as Adichie so eloquently expresssed in her TED Talk.  Well, I could write forever (you know I'm never at a loss for words), but I need to get back to work. 
I hope to blog as often as electricity and internet access allow in the days to come.  Please keep me and our whole Ghana team in your prayers.  Until we meet again, "Maaha"  Good afternoon (in Ghana)

Freezing Snow or Sweltering Heat

        As I sit here looking out my classroom window and watch the beautiful snow (yes, it is indeed March in Michigan and yesterday it was -10 degrees in the morning), I can't help but wonder what the sweltering heat of Ghana will feel like in less than two short weeks. Until today I was also wondering if I would be sleeping outdoors in that heat and humidity as the hotel we were trying to make arrangements with failed to respond to my, I'm sure very patient and pleasant, emails.  Fortunately, and thanks be to God!, our host teacher Christian suggested another hotel sammarlodge.com (click the link) and is helping to make the arrangements.  While only a two star hotel in Ghana, I can't be more thankful for a roof over my head, sometimes reliable internet, breakfast, and a place to sleep. 
       This arrangement is especially important as I have talked to a few people about the prevalence of malaria this time of year, some in spite of taking the malaria pills.  I am going armed with DEET 40%, long sleeve shirts, a hat, my anti-malaria pills, and most of all the Lord's protection. I ask that you help cover me in prayer for this very issue--protection from malaria, safe travels and good health.  Prayers are also requested for our fellow TGC teachers who leave this Saturday for their time in Morocco and those teachers expecting to travel to Russia March 29 (praying for stability in that region).
       If you want to learn more about Ghana, its history, people, and attractions, CNN has been kind enough to run a special series this month "On the Road, Ghana".  Check it out and you'll see the rainforest canopy walk and slave castle I will be visiting as well as the hustle and bustle of Accra. (On the Road Ghana)  (click the link)


Kakum Canopy Walk